Monday, January 29, 2007
Sunday, January 28, 2007
NEW DOGGY DIET DRUG
News from the ASPCA:
ASPCA WEIGHS IN ON NEW DOGGY DIET DRUG
The ASPCA celebrates advances in veterinary science that have led to the creation of Slentrol, a “diet drug” for dogs approved January 5 by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and expected to be available with a vet’s prescription this spring. Of course, we’d like to remind pet parents that no drug should replace regular diet and exercise programs, and that it is important to work closely with your veterinarian to determine if your pet would be an appropriate candidate for this treatment.
“Slentrol works by reducing a dog’s appetite and fat absorption,” says Dr. Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist and senior vice president of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, the premier animal poison control center in North America. “As with any weight reduction program, Slentrol should be used as part of an overall weight loss and exercise program monitored by your veterinarian. Slentrol will typically be prescribed for three months, and dogs should be re-examined at that point.”
Dogs are defined as obese if they are 20 percent over their ideal weight. Surveys estimate that five percent of American dogs are obese, and another 20 to 30 percent are overweight. Just as in humans, obesity in dogs can lead to health problems, including joint disorders and diabetes.
“Pet obesity is a growing problem that needs to be addressed,” says ASPCA President, Ed Sayres. “However, we want to make it clear that the ASPCA does not consider medication a substitute for proper diet and exercise. This treatment should be considered only for seriously obese dogs, and only if diet and exercise programs have failed and a pet’s weight is endangering its life.”
Pet parents should be fully informed of Slentrol’s potential side effects and work closely with their vets when administering this medicine. Pet parents should also resist the temptation to pop a few Slentrol themselves, as the drug has been deemed dangerous for humans.
ALL for PETZ is a proud member of the ASPCA.
ASPCA WEIGHS IN ON NEW DOGGY DIET DRUG
The ASPCA celebrates advances in veterinary science that have led to the creation of Slentrol, a “diet drug” for dogs approved January 5 by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and expected to be available with a vet’s prescription this spring. Of course, we’d like to remind pet parents that no drug should replace regular diet and exercise programs, and that it is important to work closely with your veterinarian to determine if your pet would be an appropriate candidate for this treatment.
“Slentrol works by reducing a dog’s appetite and fat absorption,” says Dr. Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist and senior vice president of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, the premier animal poison control center in North America. “As with any weight reduction program, Slentrol should be used as part of an overall weight loss and exercise program monitored by your veterinarian. Slentrol will typically be prescribed for three months, and dogs should be re-examined at that point.”
Dogs are defined as obese if they are 20 percent over their ideal weight. Surveys estimate that five percent of American dogs are obese, and another 20 to 30 percent are overweight. Just as in humans, obesity in dogs can lead to health problems, including joint disorders and diabetes.
“Pet obesity is a growing problem that needs to be addressed,” says ASPCA President, Ed Sayres. “However, we want to make it clear that the ASPCA does not consider medication a substitute for proper diet and exercise. This treatment should be considered only for seriously obese dogs, and only if diet and exercise programs have failed and a pet’s weight is endangering its life.”
Pet parents should be fully informed of Slentrol’s potential side effects and work closely with their vets when administering this medicine. Pet parents should also resist the temptation to pop a few Slentrol themselves, as the drug has been deemed dangerous for humans.
ALL for PETZ is a proud member of the ASPCA.
Saturday, January 27, 2007
How to Crate Train
Step 1: Acquaint your puppy with his new home
Simply start from early puppyhood and have your puppy sleep and rest in his home. Almost without trying he will train himself to seek security and comfort inside his little "dog home." Encourage your puppy to go into his home on his own. If necessary, toss a little treat in the home. DON’T FORCE HIM! He may quickly back out or be shy, but that’s normal. Just take it slowly. At first, don’t close the door on him, let him go in and out on his own. Once he is happy and unafraid of his new home, simply restrain him at the door with your hand. Make him stay in the home for a few minutes, then gradually increase the time and be sure to praise him! Once he is comfortable with this, (probably a few hours or days of short training sessions) simply restrain him at the door with the door—again praising him lavishly. Soon he will be secure in his home with the door closed. Slowly you can get further and further away from him, always praising his accepting behavior. Eventually, the pup will sit quietly and sleep in his home with the door closed.
Step 2: Direct his elimination
Understand that little puppies need to “go” about every 2-4 hours. On a schedule, (such as after feeding, before bedtime, first thing in morning) let your puppy out, teach him the route to the door, praise him at the door and take him out to the part of the yard you want him to use. Very quickly, you are teaching him an elimination schedule that will stay with him for the rest of his life. As your puppy gets older (4-6 months) you can gradually leave him in his home for longer periods of time because he can “hold it” longer. Soon he can be home in his home all day, if necessary, until someone arrives to let him out.
The above courtesy of ">Midwest Homes for Pets
Simply start from early puppyhood and have your puppy sleep and rest in his home. Almost without trying he will train himself to seek security and comfort inside his little "dog home." Encourage your puppy to go into his home on his own. If necessary, toss a little treat in the home. DON’T FORCE HIM! He may quickly back out or be shy, but that’s normal. Just take it slowly. At first, don’t close the door on him, let him go in and out on his own. Once he is happy and unafraid of his new home, simply restrain him at the door with your hand. Make him stay in the home for a few minutes, then gradually increase the time and be sure to praise him! Once he is comfortable with this, (probably a few hours or days of short training sessions) simply restrain him at the door with the door—again praising him lavishly. Soon he will be secure in his home with the door closed. Slowly you can get further and further away from him, always praising his accepting behavior. Eventually, the pup will sit quietly and sleep in his home with the door closed.
Step 2: Direct his elimination
Understand that little puppies need to “go” about every 2-4 hours. On a schedule, (such as after feeding, before bedtime, first thing in morning) let your puppy out, teach him the route to the door, praise him at the door and take him out to the part of the yard you want him to use. Very quickly, you are teaching him an elimination schedule that will stay with him for the rest of his life. As your puppy gets older (4-6 months) you can gradually leave him in his home for longer periods of time because he can “hold it” longer. Soon he can be home in his home all day, if necessary, until someone arrives to let him out.
The above courtesy of ">Midwest Homes for Pets
For more information and other pet products, please go to ">All for PETZ
Friday, January 26, 2007
Why Crate Train?
Dogs in the wild live in a den which provides protection and a great deal of psychological satisfaction. All dogs, therefore, have a strong natural tendency to seek out this type of shelter. In your home, if your dog has no place to call his own, he will make feeble attempts to curl up under a table, a chair or some other choice location. When you use a crate , you give your puppy a place to feel secure...something to get his back up against. He won't feel isolated because the pet home , provides essential visibility & ventilation. Just like a baby in a playpen. You will also be taking advantage of his natural instinct to keep his home clean, therefore, when he has to “go” he will try to hold it until you can take him outside to the proper area. This will teach him a schedule and help him eliminate accidents. With a crate , your puppy will have fewer behavioral problems like excessive barking and chewing. But most of all, by providing him a safe and secure home, he’ll be happier and more self confident.
The above courtesy of Midwest Homes for Pets.
For more on pet care and products, please visit All for PETZ .
Monday, January 22, 2007
Rabbits and Guinea Pigs
All for PETZRabbits are primarily fed a pelleted diet. Traditionally these pellets are made from pelletized alfalfa hay. Recent research indicates that these alfalfa based pellets are too high in protein and too low in fiber for adult rabbits. The digestive system of the rabbit includes an organ called the cecum that is located at the origin of the large intestine. The cecum's function is to break down digest fiber. High protein, low fiber diets can lead to an impacted cecum.
Current wisdom recommends that adult rabbits (over 6-8 months old) be fed a Timothy Hay based diet for its lower protein and higher fiber content. Fresh dark green leafy vegetables like dandelion leaves, romaine lettuce, kale and endive should be given. Small quantities of fresh carrots, apples, banana, papaya, and even raspberries may be used as treats. Timothy Hay should be offered at all times.
It is safe to feed Guinea Pig pellets to rabbits in an a pinch, but it is not recommended to feed rabbit pellets to Guinea Pigs because pellets formulated for rabbits specifically do not meet the Vitamin C requirements of Guinea Pigs. It is also important to note that adult pet Guinea Pigs' nutritional requirements differ from those of young, gestating or lactating sows.
Guinea Pigs are primarily fed a pelleted diet. They are unique in that they are the only mammal other than primates that do not metabolize Vitamin C from sunshine. Therefore their diet must be supplemented with this essential vitamin at a rate of 10 mg per day. Guinea Pig Pellets should have stabilized Vitamin C added to them. It is safe to feed Guinea Pig pellets to rabbits in an emergency, but it is not safe to feed rabbit pellets to Guinea Pigs.
The above information courtesy of Sun Seed Company, Inc.
Current wisdom recommends that adult rabbits (over 6-8 months old) be fed a Timothy Hay based diet for its lower protein and higher fiber content. Fresh dark green leafy vegetables like dandelion leaves, romaine lettuce, kale and endive should be given. Small quantities of fresh carrots, apples, banana, papaya, and even raspberries may be used as treats. Timothy Hay should be offered at all times.
It is safe to feed Guinea Pig pellets to rabbits in an a pinch, but it is not recommended to feed rabbit pellets to Guinea Pigs because pellets formulated for rabbits specifically do not meet the Vitamin C requirements of Guinea Pigs. It is also important to note that adult pet Guinea Pigs' nutritional requirements differ from those of young, gestating or lactating sows.
Guinea Pigs are primarily fed a pelleted diet. They are unique in that they are the only mammal other than primates that do not metabolize Vitamin C from sunshine. Therefore their diet must be supplemented with this essential vitamin at a rate of 10 mg per day. Guinea Pig Pellets should have stabilized Vitamin C added to them. It is safe to feed Guinea Pig pellets to rabbits in an emergency, but it is not safe to feed rabbit pellets to Guinea Pigs.
The above information courtesy of Sun Seed Company, Inc.
Sunday, January 21, 2007
New Website for Pets
We have started a new web-based pet supply store. We want our site to be more than just a place to purchase quality, name brand products. We are offering superior customer service to go with the great products. More importantly, however, we will be providing useful information relating to the care and feeding of your pet.
Each week, we will talk about things like nutrition, health care, new products, and important news about our furry and feathered friends. For now, we will leave the horses to someone else. We will focus our attention on what are considered companion pets. These are mostly indoor animals.
Dogs and cats are the most common pets, but there are o many others, including: Hamsters, Snakes, Rabbits, Iguanas, Guinea Pigs, Hermit Crabs, Ferrets, and so many more.
We welcome topic suggestions and ideas. Please visit our website, www.allforpetz.com, and submit your questions, comments, or suggestions.
Each week, we will talk about things like nutrition, health care, new products, and important news about our furry and feathered friends. For now, we will leave the horses to someone else. We will focus our attention on what are considered companion pets. These are mostly indoor animals.
Dogs and cats are the most common pets, but there are o many others, including: Hamsters, Snakes, Rabbits, Iguanas, Guinea Pigs, Hermit Crabs, Ferrets, and so many more.
We welcome topic suggestions and ideas. Please visit our website, www.allforpetz.com, and submit your questions, comments, or suggestions.
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